It was hard for me to leave Tanglag behind. For more than two weeks, from February 22 until March 9, it had been my home. When I waved goodbye to the people, it was like leaving my family. My feelings were mixed: I was sad to go away, but at the same time I praised myself lucky that I had been able to be part of the lives of the Tanglag people. As we walked back to the highway, I reminisced about the wonderful moments I had.

Romel from CPA Kalinga was the one who accompanied me to Tanglag. After the jeep dropped us off at the waiting shed along the highway on February 22, we had to prepare ourselves for a one hour hike. Upon arrival we were quite tired, but fortunately we received a warm welcome in the household of Quintin and Rosaline. I did not know then, that this would be my new home for the coming two weeks. There was coffee (one of the many cups to come!) and hot cake. I was immediately confident that I would feel at home in Tanglag. In the evening we were joined by Romy, the barangay secretary, and some others. While enjoying their locally produced basi, they gave me a brief overview of the general situation in Tanglag. The next morning I went “roaming with Romy” to introduce myself to the people and to get to know the village and its people. I was happy that I brought my pictures from Belgium; they have proven already many times to be a good ice-breaker! On that first day, Romy was an excellent guide and shared many interesting anecdotes and stories with me.

In the beginning of course, I had to adapt to the rhythm of life in Tanglag. Early to bed, early to rise! I was not able however to wake up at four or 5 AM, like most of the villagers do. I usually slept till 6:30 AM. How nice it was to wake up every morning with the smell of the delicious Tanglag coffee. At least I will be able to drink it in Belgium as well, since the people were so kind to give me a carton box full of it on my departure. During the day, I usually went with Quintin and Rosaline, my very loving and caring “Kalinga parents”, to their hut in the rice fields. Sometimes, we would also have our lunch there. It was wonderful to sit there with a book, enjoying the sun and the surroundings and drinking fresh coconut juice. In the afternoon I would return to have a rest, take a bath or wash some of my clothes. In the evening, some people would drop by the house to gather around a cup of coffee and share some stories. These were the times I would really learn about the history and background of Tanglag and its people.

Seeing through Tanglag
Although at first I perceived Tanglag as a very tranquil and idyllic place, I soon understood that underneath this appearance of peacefulness, the people are facing many hardships. The economic crisis is also affecting their lives: they make less and less profit on the crops they sell in the market, while at the same time, basic necessities are becoming more and more expensive. Every day they have to work hard in their rice fields, just to provide for themselves and their families. Some years ago, there was even a shortage of food. A typhoon had destroyed their irrigation system and caused many ricefields to dry. From time to time, there are also rat plagues that lead to the destruction of crops.

But the people of Tanglag do not just sit and watch as troubles arise. Through unity and cooperation, they try to improve the situation of their community. They organized themselves in order to face the difficulties and address these. The so-called “women’s club” is a local chapter of Innabuyog, the youth is organized in the Saint Mary Society, while all the families are gathered in the Holy Family Organization. The local umbrella organization is called TACUD or Tanglag Community Organization for Unity and Development. Through these organizations, people were able to establish a rice mill, a day care and a medical center. Currently, they are constructing two irrigation projects, funded by Bayan Muna and the Montañosa Relief and Rehabilitation Services (MRRS).

On February 25, I joined some of the men in their counterpart work. The construction of the irrigation canals is hard work and time-consuming, but in the end it is bound to benefit the whole community, as it will allow them to plant more rice.

I cannot help to think that the level of organization Tanglag has reached, should inspire other communities to do the same. This was also the message I shared to the people during the mass on Ash Wednesday, March 1. I was asked to make a contribution to the church service, so I sang a Dutch song titled: “De Wereld is een Toverbal” (the world is a magic place) and explained the meaning of it. The song tells us that nobody knows what will become of our planet. We all want it to be a better place, but one thing is for sure: you cannot do it on your own. So I called for everybody to join hands and work together for a brighter future. Only then things will change for the better.

This message however, is something the Philippine government does not seem to understand. It is sad and revolting to see that exactly because of the commitment, unity and organizing of the Tanglag people, they arouse the suspicion of the military. Already since the Chico Dam struggle, the barangay is targeted as a “red area” and has consequently suffered from militarization and harassment. Even today, there is a military detachment in the vicinity of the village. The people have already petitioned against its presence, but it is still there.

One of the elders and former barangay captain, Saturnino Pinangga, told me that Tanglag played an important role during Chico Dam issue. His accounts of the victory of the people over this destructive project that threatened the source of livelihood of so many people along the river were very inspiring.

One of the highlights of my stay was being able to witness the village’s commemoration of the death anniversary of a local resident who later became a Red fighter. He was remembered with the utmost respect and the villagers expressed gratitude for the ultimate sacrifice he gave to the people’s struggle.

Another event I was able to witness, was the town fiesta in Lubuagan. The theme was “Amung chi Bochong” (Peacepact Celebration). The children of the Tanglag Elementary School and the people of Tanglag were required to give a cultural presentation. Through their dance, the Tanglag people called on all the barangays of Lubuagan to unite and live together peacefully. In spite of the bad weather, the fiesta was a splendid occasion for me to observe and enjoy the culture of the Kalinga people, so I took dozens of pictures. We spent the night in the convent of Lubuagan, before returning to Tanglag in the back of a dump truck on March 5.

I was very happy that I was able to extend my stay from March 1 to March 9, but the end of my stay was of course inevitable. On the evening of March 8, the women’s club gathered in the house of Rosaline and Quintin for a despedida. For this occasion, the women had composed a song themselves. I was very touched and honored when they performed it for me. Yet another unforgettable moment. The next morning, before going back to Tabuk, we still had a little photo shoot. Whether the G-string suits me well, is for you to judge. # Joris Smeets